WOMENS PARIS FASHION WEEK: AUTUMN / WINTER 2020 RECAP

by on in Journal
Building a wardrobe often incurs room for self-exploration throughout its timeline, whether a great deal of it revolves around functionality, or even if it’s curated solely based on personal instinct. A longline parka removes the need for extra compartments when equipped for mobility, cocoon-shaped coats can exaggerate your overall silhouette yet hint at fragility. In a world that focuses on deviating from permanence, we too, are inherently forced to reinterpret and study how a piece of fabric resonates with our personality. This thought of reinterpretation follows us to our Autumn/Winter 2020 buying trip in Paris as we revisit fan favourites, and greet new faces.
Having arrived recently as part of our curation, the newest feature carries a non-conformist attitude rooted from cultural backgrounds that both have an extensive history in reinterpreting the essence of clothing. The Autumn/Winter 2020 presentation by Hyein Seo was everything we expected it to be; manageable to style, and highly intuitive in blending the functional aspects of her collection with the label’s sharp-witted judgement on street culture. Having seen an emergence of gender fluidity being taken up by followers of the brand, this season presents wearables suited to young, contemporary customers. With pieces that reflect back to deconstructionism (as adorned through the eyes of the beloved Martin Margiela), Hyein Seo’s approach to her newest collection is translated through a limited colour palette for those who prefer an organised wardrobe.
Stepping into Renli Su’s showroom, we were greeted with elements of nature that introduced a sense of tranquility and stillness as we browsed through her collection. A notable feature in her range of accessories can be referenced to constellations seen in the sky, which in turn reminds us of the proximity between the universe and ourselves. Known for her fervent interest in literary studies, her latest collection outlines the character of a modest woman with an extensive longing to detach herself from conservative stereotypes. Much can be said about how someone’s identity correlates to their choice of garments, but while Renli Su conveys an aesthetic that adheres to preservation, deciphering the message or narrative behind each piece still remains as a fundamental feature in her design process.
Like talks of various luxury brands appointing new designers, signifying that change is circulating the air, on our side of the spectrum, a similar partnership is forged under the hands of two artisans – Uma Wang and Takayoshi Yamanami of DETAJ. Both having an aesthetic shared between them that can be seen through their nomadic influences, a collaboration between the two was only natural. With a huge focus on textured details, the handcrafted jewellery pieces each carry a personality of its own, one that is conditioned entirely by the wearer. A collection that stays true to the virtues of blacksmithing techniques, the colours and imperfections are in fact, the retention of the materials’ natural beauty.
A designer who has long been with us since the beginning, carrying with her an all-encompassing eye for creativity, Alessandra Marchi’s Fall 2020 collection invites an inquisitive audience who prefer a touch of versatility in their wardrobe without too much misdirection. With a series of knitwear and notch lapel jackets catching our attention this season, the label calls upon for some innovation on the wearers’ end in a seamless row of possibilities for styling – draped silhouettes and contoured make up, paired with the intensity of feminine poise.

A palpable contrast from the previous collection, Ann Demeulemeester’s upcoming Autumn/Winter 2020 collection features a juxtaposition of silky, wispy fabrics against metal gear in the form of headdresses adorned with larger than life feathers, peplums as well as crinolines. Placed stilly amongst the soft, flowy apparel hanging in the showroom, the metal accessories stood out; almost designedly highlighting the dual nature of women— toughness and delicacy in one.

Everything was perfectly still walking into the territory of French designer Marc Le Bihan’s showroom. Numerous textile prints and pattern types cloaked the room with influences drawn from sea dwellers; there was almost a sort of mystical energy that could be felt as we browsed through the collection. Apart from the designer’s strong affinity for traditional textiles, it seems a similar intimacy was contributed to his line of accessories, displaying a series of beads, gems and other raw minerals as part of his sophisticated look for the season.

A colour palette that has been meticulously preserved as part of her aesthetic, understanding the dialogue between Uma Wang and her collections is like reading an anthropology – there a different points within a space to absorb and linking them to form the environment built by the characters involved, is what stimulates the curiosity. Duster coats contrasted with the fluidity of embroidered scarves, when combined can add an entirely new quality to your identity. Maturity calls for comfort, while comfort walks the line between style and usability, and with so many options in today’s sartorial climate, gripping onto heritage feeds the need for a timeless wardrobe.

A Ukrainian brand inspired by underground tattoo culture, TTSWTRS (Read: TATTOOSWEATERS) is an up and coming fashion label merging both tattoos and wearables into one. Manifested in the form of inky, hand-drawn graphics mimicking tattoos printed on mesh bodysuits amongst its range of womenswear apparel. Apart from its slinky pants and leggings, the brand has released a pop of colours in the upcoming Autumn/Winter 2020 collection.

Having garnered widespread interest all over the globe for their distinct taste in content surrounding the intricacies of fashion, art and culture, Berlin-based publication house 032c are broadening their reach to diversify their methods of communication. Through fashion, the brand explores garments and accessories built around skate culture, stamped with an urbanite attitude.

Stepping into the room, gleams of this season’s selected hues added onto the already vibrant personality that Natasha Zinko carries. Neon green furniture and life-sized smiley stickmen greeted us as we sat down to discuss the coming season’s offerings from Zinko. The upcoming collection sees a series of casual clothing: illustrated tees, hoodies, joggers and jumpsuits in the brand’s signature bright and playful colours.

Last but not least, coming up in Autumn/Winter 2020 is the highly anticipated collaboration between Jerry Lorenzo of Fear of God and Alessandro Sartori of Ermenegildo Zegna— Expect to see a collection of refined, tailored casuals; a fresh wardrobe aesthetic with the coming together of the two designers.