MENS PARIS FASHION WEEK: AUTUMN / WINTER 2020 RECAP

by on in Journal

There are only a few things in this world that can evoke an overwhelming sense of bliss; like taking a dip in lukewarm turquoise waters set against clear skies, or chancing upon a first pressed copy of Masta Ace’s ‘A Long Hot Summer’ at a record store behind an alley. It didn’t take long for us to realise waking up in a different city invited a feeling not far off from that either. With a day full of scheduled appointments ahead of us, we wasted no time admiring the architectural elements sitting outside the balcony and instead starting sorting out our agenda for Paris Fashion Week.

Amid the busy streets of Champs-Élysées, accompanied by the aromas of a Parisian classic picked up at a local roaster situated just around the corner, the cup of café crème in hand was the only source of warmth within a kilometre radius that we could find. Gliding through the streets of Paris, you can hear the chatter of people dressed in layered outerwear with their eyewear donned, chairs turned out facing the street. We eventually found ourselves greeted by barnhouse wood, outside the doors of Maurizio Amadei’s showroom.

In this season’s collection, Maurizio Amadei continues to explore innovative alterations in how he shapes the wearables. Messenger bags undergo dyeing treatments, creating texture and giving each design a bold character. Clutches and handbags receive a structural recalibration as they are folded to emanate a collapsible silhouette highlighted with silver accessories.
Presented in sleek outfits with a monochromatic touch, this season Matthew Williams of 1017 ALYX 9SM looks back at 80s references for strikingly sharp silhouettes, as he attempts to inject corporate culture into his latest collection. Glossy high waisted trousers and loosely-fitted coats worn by impassive teenagers set the look for this season – a nod to the wallflower with a penchant for all things black and uninviting.

Despite being greeted by the black matte metal doors outside Ann Demeulemeester‘s showroom, we were delighted to see the stark contrast of the bright fluorescent lights coupled with the exquisite gold and sterling silver jewellery. Crafted in organic forms depicting leaves and clovers, revealing the theme for Demeulemeester’s collection this season.

Repurposing raw materials have longed been a topic prevalent amongst brands and for those who are well aware of the work of Greg Lauren, would know just how unorthodox his methods of stitching and patching can be. Elevating his design philosophy even further, this season sees past materials recycled into contrasting details with a bulkier fit.
Following up on the topic of unorthodox methods, Taichi Murakami’s showroom presented a breakdown of his crafting process used for his collection which involved the manipulation of paper-like material to form stitching fabric. This contributed to the aesthetic of texturised garments which the designer has always been ardently fond of.
A peek into Guidi’s showroom, you’d be greeted with an extensive visual compilation submitted by members’ of the brand’s cult following, lined against the walls and floors of the showroom. An array of leather artistry rests on neat rows of shelves, distinctively exhibited with colours resurfacing from past collections and others, for the first time. A collection that focuses more on individuality with diverse options from thigh-high boots to slip ons, this year Guidi looks to relay the importance of personal style as opposed to trend-setting.
Arguably one of the more elegant locations with a renaissance-styled interior where Rhude’s newest collection was staged, the grandeur of the space emulated the collection’s poise. Featuring a series of accessories and outerwear for an exaggerated look, Rhuigi Villaseñor is challenging the wardrobes of those who see themselves at the forefront of streetwear culture.
This season, Rick Owens relocates his showroom to an entirely new location. Amidst the designer’s apocalyptic, grim style, we see an introduction of new silhouettes this collection with oversized, cropped puffer jackets, as well as the signature shoes and boots reinterpreted in new colourways and finishings.
Moving on to Song For The Mute, the Australian-based label’s showroom reveals the label’s use of organic accents— printed rattan mats and bamboo poles, with accessories and apparel hung across these natural accents. Over at Uma Wang‘s, this season highlights the designer’s signature silhouettes: oversized flowy dresses, and organic cotton in a series of monochromatic tones.
Concluding our buying trip with muted tones with a deeper study into patterns, Ziggy Chen’s newest collection fosters the qualities of preserving the brand’s heritage, seen through his signature layering style. Darker hues on the outside, with a light coloured top on the inside, and an asymmetrical jacket bears the look for Ziggy’s nomadic referencing.